Before we talk about this, you need to know: I’m not a fashion expert.

I couldn’t tell you the difference between haute couture and off-the-rack. I don’t know what the latest hot actress wore to the Academy Awards this year. Is black still the new black? Don’t ask me! But I am well versed in those all-important sex-work-specific fashion questions. How short is your dress allowed to be before hotel security escorts you out? Is it possible to take off skinny jeans in a sexy manner? And what kinds of heels allow you to walk the five blocks between the restaurant and your client’s hotel room without passing out or falling over?

As someone on an irregular income, one of my biggest wins has been finding great clothes at thrift stores and turning them into excellent escorting outfits. If you don’t have much to spend but also need to look fantastic, second-hand clothes stores might be the answer.

Thrift stores, also known as second-hand clothing shops, charity stores, or ‘op shops’ in the Australian vernacular, sell a range of pre-loved items donated by those who no longer need them. I’m exceedingly frugal and often broke, due to my many projects and frequent need for time off. Second-hand stores have become my saving grace.

I’ve had some exhilarating experiences: the beautiful wool winter coat I’ve owned and worn to outcalls for years, or the thigh-high boots that make me feel like a cowgirl, for example. Weight fluctuations no longer distress me, because I know I can assemble a new wardrobe without emptying my bank account. Hunting through piles of cast-off fashion has helped teach me what looks good on me, and how to tell a designer piece from a fast-fashion disaster at a glance.

Here’s my personal guide to thrifting for sex-work wear. Although buying pre-loved has its drawbacks, it’s worth a try if you’re working on a tight budget.

The many advantages of thrifting

If you’re a sex worker, there are a lot of reasons to enjoy thrift store shopping.

Buying second-hand saves money

This is obvious, but it’s true…and for many workers, it matters. Running your own business is stressful and comes with an unpredictable, seasonal cash flow. We don’t always have the savings set aside to update our work clothes when we need to. And when I’m prioritizing expenses such as advertising fees, it’s a relief to be able to look good without relying on my credit card.

A cheap wardrobe is a shortcut to getting ‘on-brand’

As a new, inexperienced escort, I felt intimidated by some of the workers I saw online, with their incredible looks and expensive lingerie wardrobes. I worried I wouldn’t be able to compete. I didn’t yet have the income (or the generous clients) to buy what I needed for photoshoots and social-media selfies.

So I caught the train to South Yarra (one of the more affluent suburbs of Melbourne) and went searching through their op shops. A few second-hand, on-brand dresses helped me attract my first clients without a huge investment. If you need to build an expensive ‘look’ quickly, thrifting is a great way to do it.

Of course, not everyone favors ‘designer’ as part of their brand, and sometimes it’s just a matter of finding something that suits your personality and makes you feel sexy. In this case, there are usually plenty of trashy-cute dresses, oversized sunglasses, and sexy jeans on offer too. I’m a big fan of the classic, figure-hugging ‘brothel dress’ and will happily share my favorite finds with the right clients.

You can take fashion risks without fear

I have a bad habit of becoming obsessed with a particular color or fabric, despite the fact that it looks terrible on me. I’ll hand over my credit card, take the damn thing home, and then realize I’ve made an expensive mistake. This repeated fashion humiliation means I’m very reluctant to try new things when I shop in department stores or boutiques.

But when I’m thrifting, experiments are easy. If an unusual item jumps out at me, I take a quick look at the price tag and confirm the cost of a potential disappointment. $10 for a lemon-yellow cardigan? If it doesn’t work out, I’ll donate it back to the store the next day. No big deal.

Less stress about mess

Have you ever had one of those awkward dinner dates where nothing goes right? Your client tries to order for you, other guests are giving you weird looks because he talks so loud, and then, to top it all off, you spill red wine on your favorite pair of white jeans. For the rest of the booking, you’re mentally calculating how much less you’re making thanks to the expense of replacing the item that’s been ruined.

Having a second-hand work outfit means I’m less worried about rips, snags, and spills. Dinner is more relaxed because I don’t have to feel terrible about a sauce stain on my blouse. And when I take my clothes off in my client’s hotel room and throw them on the floor, I don’t feel the tiniest bit guilty.

It’s the environmentally-friendly option

I know there are plenty of environmentally conscious sex pros out there! Unfortunately, fast fashion is a huge threat to our planet, with some sources estimating that the textile industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions. As the world edges towards climate disaster, it feels wrong to buy cheap, new clothes if there’s a better option.

Buying secondhand is an excellent way to reduce textile waste. I enjoy my clothes a lot more without the burden of guilt that comes from patronising the worst offenders.

The disadvantages of thrifting

Before you rush out to your local store, let’s do a quick reality check. Thrifting doesn’t work for everyone, and there are a few things to consider if you’re really committed to ethics and sex worker rights.

Seasonality will affect your options

The range of choices you have in your local op shop usually depends on what’s recently been donated. Unfortunately, this means that a change in seasons - a cold snap, for example - can lead to the locals discarding items that are completely wrong for the current conditions.

It’s frustrating to go to the store in the middle of winter and only see sundresses. Conversely, you may find the best coats and jackets appear at the start of summer when everyone cleans out their wardrobe. If you’re good at planning ahead, you’ll find some lovely pieces…but if you wait until the snow is falling before shopping for winter boots, you may be out of luck.

Second-hand doesn’t work for every body

Just as with new fashion, searching for second-hand fashion can be a painful experience if for those with bodies that are considered ‘less conventional’. Even though many stores now have plus-sized racks, the range is usually limited. If you have a body that’s different from the ‘ideal’, you no doubt know how demoralizing it can be to go into a department store and find that everything looks weird on you, due to poor design and limited sizing ranges. I suspect the same could apply here.

This is just another way fatphobia (and lack of body-positivity in general) makes life hard for many folks. And it really sucks.

Another privilege: location

Another aspect of privilege that could compromise your experience is that, if you’re living in a small town or rural area, you might not have many options for thrift stores. When you do find one, the range might be disappointing.

Although I’ve found pretty good stuff in rural areas, you really do have to be lucky - it’s not just a matter of turning up and leaving with bags of designer items. If you’re in a remote location, you may wish to adjust your expectations or try online consignment stores such as ThredUp. Marketplaces such as eBay and FaceBook Marketplace also have thriving communities dedicated to lingerie and other premium fashion items.

Not all charity stores are ethical

In my hometown of Melbourne, most thrift stores are run by religious organizations. This could be problematic if you’re uncomfortable with organized religion. Unfortunately,  more than a few of these orgs also have a history of discriminating against LGBTQIA+ people and exploiting disabled workers. Given that what you spend in their stores will go towards these charities, you may wish to avoid the ones you find problematic.

It’s not all bad news. Increasingly, many second-hand or consignment stores are run by non-religious charities or small businesses. In Melbourne, the charity Fitted For Work has a store in Richmond. The organization raises money to help victims of domestic violence return to the workforce.

Tips for a successful thrift store expedition

This piece wouldn’t be complete without some of my personal tips for finding a good bargain. Please note that these come from personal experience, and may not work for everyone. I can’t guarantee success! But I can promise you’ll have fun trying.

Visit small stores in well-off areas

When rich people are tired of their fashion-label items, do you think they truck them all the way across town to a big charity shop? No way; they nip around the corner and leave their stuff at a small, local store. Even though a large store seems to offer a bigger range, I often recommend the smaller, suburban spots. With generous donors nearby and less foot traffic, you’re more likely to find something special.

Know how to spot quality fashion labels

I’m not pretentious. I don’t assume that something from Sass and Bide makes you cooler than something from Forever New. But I have found that designer stuff does tend to last longer and often has a better fit than cheaper items. So it’s useful to keep an eye out for the pricier labels, simply to ensure you end up with a good investment.

Avoid the overpriced ‘designer’ rack

Some charity stores have tried to capitalize on the thrifting trend by picking out designer items and attaching a hefty price tag. Sometimes forty or fifty dollars, sometimes more. I’ve seen shoes and bags priced at hundreds of dollars, even when everything else in the store is fifteen bucks or less.

Obviously, paying two hundred dollars for a handbag totally defeats the purpose of thrifting on a budget. So I tend to skip the ‘designer’ rack. Often, there are just as many high-end items in with the regular stuff - gems the staff may have missed.

Figure out what looks good on you

Second-hand clothes shopping is all about efficiency. You don’t want to spend ages queueing for the changing room with an armload of stuff that isn’t flattering - it’s exhausting. Instead, try to figure out what kinds of styles and colors work best. With practice, you’ll be able to make an accurate guess as to whether something will look as good on you as it does on the coat hanger.

Bring a friend for a second opinion

“Does my butt look big in this?” Without a well-placed mirror, it’s impossible to tell. Perhaps your butt is your biggest asset on the job, and you need someone to tell you whether the flared jeans you’ve found are sitting just right. Thrift-store shopping can definitely be a social activity: bring a worker friend or two with you for second opinions.

You’ll need to choose the right friends. Being told, ‘You look great!’ every time isn’t much help. Neither is someone critical who won’t have anything good to say about your outfits. But the right person–a bestie who knows your niche and brand–can be a huge help when putting together a work wardrobe.

It’s not for everyone…but if you’re low on cash, it’s worth a try.

I love my second-hand working wardrobe. Although putting it together has taken a lot of time and energy, the effort has been worth it. My pre-loved clothes have helped me get started in the industry, experiment with my brand, and weather the ups and downs of small-business cash flow. And even if I never wear those thigh-high heels to an actual date, I’ll treasure them until the day I die. I hope you can find something special too.